Backyard Aquaponics
A place to discuss aquaponics

Do you measure your nitrates? You can put as many pots as plants will fit and still not be able to use all the nitrates based on what I saw in the pics. Any ideas on what's in your water source(pH, calcium, etc.)?

I will post my systems tests tomorrow. It's city of Escondido California water. I will find out tomorrow. Should I buy a calcium tester?

I believe it should really read Fe-DTPA but we all use shorthand . It's a type of Chelated Iron that will supply the iron you need without coloring the water deep red like the Fe-EDDHA that was also mentioned. Different iron chelates work at different pH's. The Fe-DTPA should work for you based on your pH as DasBoot mentioned.

The pH test and a general hardness test should give enough info on makeup of your source water. The api fresh water kit is useful for most of your weekly/monthly tests.

Narrowed it down to phosphate def. Also had a 4 inch gap in between my raft and the walls. So I eliminated the gap. Phosphates are at .5 lol I have read it should be in 10-30 range this accurate?

I'm not sure about what your reading should be for phosphates in your DWC. The fact that there are phosphates showing up indicates to me that there are enough of them. I don't think you'd see any if the plants needed them. Many systems run with seemingly no Nitrates, they just get used immediately or the plants pick up the nitrogen before it's converted from ammonia.

Difficult to say how accurate the test is for different forms of phosphate too. Might matter where you're getting your sample as well.

I'm pretty sure that's a potassium deficiency on the strawberries .

Cheers

Ok guys. Can you help and ellaborate on ph buffers. My understanding is that,a,buffer will essentially in the most simplified assumption= buffers are something,that maintains a desires ph? Started,with rock phosphorus. And potasium, chellated iron.

Here is the system. You cam see the grow bed and raft section.

When,I'm at work tomorrow I will post my water perimeters. Thanks you guys straight up life savers

pH buffers are used to keep pH from moving too quickly either up or down. They are usually carbonates of some form - primarily calcium and sometimes magnesium. They can be roughly measured using water hardness tests. In my experience, phosphorus is hardly ever deficient in aquaponic systems unless you have heavy feeders.

I have been using a master pond test kit. Most def. Have since cleared up. I used rock phosphate and that seemed to really help my system. Ph has since stabilized. Also closing up the gaps around my raft eliminated the algae, I also believe that this had a big impact as well. Have some questions thinking about using red wigglers any input?




My favorite


Have not dosed any seaweed in 4 weeks. So I'm pleased. The lettuce looks like lettuce and not stunted and sad.

Should I be expecting any swings in ph In the future? My tilapia and goldfish are fat and huge, my assumption would be the ph buffer and the fish waste should be stabilizing my system enough to provide fuel to the bacteria to make nutrients accessible and not be in lock out. Any input would be awesome.

I will provide water chemistry or any photos needed

Over time, the pH will go down due to nitrification process, so you will need to buffer back up. Usually depending on source water contents, most folks alternate with calcium and potassium pH raiser (hydroxide or carbonate/bicarbonate). If you use carbonate/bicarbonate, then you will be adding a buffer as well as raising the pH. As long as you don't over feed or change too much in the system then ammonia/nitrite levels should stay 0. Red wiggler worms are recommended in the grow beds to help keep root waste under control and help to break down fish waste. They tend to slow the release of nutrients but that isn't usually a bad thing.