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PostPosted: Dec 29th, '14, 21:27 
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Maybe a 1/2 version for the fry tanks. Smaller diameter might be more accurate with the fry powder??


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PostPosted: Dec 30th, '14, 04:13 
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I'd just make the same one for both, you just need less time with the motor turning, then it'll still work when the fish get larger.


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PostPosted: Dec 30th, '14, 06:53 
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Coach,

Instead of trying to find the exact coupling. Find one that fits the motor, then lathe down the drill bit to fit the other end. Whatever size it is.


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PostPosted: Dec 30th, '14, 07:20 
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Possible, but don't have a metal lathe. The motor is only 6mm, and the auger shaft is 7/16", which I think is 11.5mm. I may try a smaller version, 1/2" with 1/2 tubing, and then I can find a coupler.The 1/2 auger bit is smaller. About 3/8" shank. I just worry that the smaller tubing might be more prone to jamming with larger feed?? The grow out is pretty big..3/16"I;m thinking about making the hopper out of sheet metal and a break. Either tack weld or just rivet together, I don't think it needs to be 100% watertight in my building. I could easily caulk the edges if it is a problem.


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PostPosted: Dec 30th, '14, 07:27 
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https://www.adafruit.com/products/1177
found it. Now have to find one that's not too expensive to ship.


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PostPosted: Dec 30th, '14, 08:12 
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Go to your local hardware store and find some clear flexible but rigid tubbing. There isn't much torque in this type of apparatus. Use a heat gun to soften the ends to slip on the shafts then use a zip tie. Your set. Keep it simple. I love my heat gun. If it doesn't fit, I heat it and make it fit.


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PostPosted: Dec 30th, '14, 08:28 
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Lmannyr- good idea, just not sure it would hold up. I may try it and just see. I found the 5mm to 10mm flex coupling for under $5.00. The motor is $13.00 delivered, and I think I can find some used/dull bits for cheap. If I can use it on one of my many 12V step down xfmrs for irrigation, then the only think would be the rpms. I think using the low rpm one would work with a simple timer. I can control the amount by controlling the duration the motor runs. If I can't figure out how to get the 10mm to the drill bit shaft, I may try your idea, it may work on a larger size like that. I don't think I would chance it on the small motor. The shaft is only 1/2" long and you would have to heat it up too much.


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PostPosted: Dec 30th, '14, 08:32 
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Don't heat the shaft. Heat the tubing. A long piece of tuning is more flexible than a short piece. It should hold up to the simple task.


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PostPosted: Dec 30th, '14, 08:35 
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Not sure if I can get a piece that will go from 5mm to 10.5mm. What do you think? I guess it would cost much to try.lol


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PostPosted: Dec 30th, '14, 08:36 
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Maybe even try heater hose or fuel hose from the auto part store as a motor to drill bit coupling. Stronger but overkill I think.


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PostPosted: Dec 30th, '14, 08:42 
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coachchris wrote:
Not sure if I can get a piece that will go from 5mm to 10.5mm. What do you think? I guess it would cost much to try.lol


Might try finding a tube that will fit the 10.5 piece. Then find a tube that fits the 5 end, cut it so just to make it biger like a bushing. Then slip the 10.5 tube over your new bushing with some heat if it needs a little convincing. Tie strap both ends tight.


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PostPosted: Dec 31st, '14, 15:50 
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coachchris wrote:
dvid. That's the same feeder we're talking about. It looks pretty simple and when combined with a timer, you should be able to adjust feed rate as needed. I just can't find that motor/gearbox combination and have not been able to locate a coupler for the small gear reduction motor that Colum located.



Im sorry, i just look at the original youtube video and didnt read well the other answers.

Good thing he is in the good path now :D


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PostPosted: Jan 1st, '15, 08:55 
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Hi CC guess you have seen this post but sometimes its easy to miss a thread
http://www.backyardaquaponics.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=23905

that's looking good

with hydraulic grain auger drives I have rebuilt I generally just weld two of the correct size drive bushes together to make the drive.
the motor is then not mounted rigidly but just prevented from rotating Ie. it is just hanging on the end of the shaft and with any small misalignment in the drive the motor wobbles around but this is not a problem.
Before finding this solution ( from our local ag. engineering guru ) I was constantly fixing worn out drive bushings and hydramotors because long augers never stay straight . Now ones I fixed five years ago are doing fine. Been looking through my photos but I haven't got a detail photo of the drive.
this might give you the idea
Attachment:
grader drive.jpg


There is a tab bolted to the front of the motor which engages with a slot In the flat plate.
The thrust of the auger must be restrained by a bearing on the end of the auger


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PostPosted: Jan 1st, '15, 21:27 
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Thanks John. Colum, the fish in each tank will always be close to the same size. There will be a total of 20 tanks, 6 for fry, 6 for fingerlings, 4 for grow out. So, I could use the smaller ones on the fry tanks and they would never need to use larger food. For an AP setup, I would agree with you. But I don't think most people start with fry in an AP system.


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PostPosted: Jan 6th, '15, 07:42 
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Lmannyr wrote:
Go to your local hardware store and find some clear flexible but rigid tubbing. There isn't much torque in this type of apparatus. Use a heat gun to soften the ends to slip on the shafts then use a zip tie. Your set. Keep it simple. I love my heat gun. If it doesn't fit, I heat it and make it fit.


The 3D Printer that I am using for my eductors uses this for the z axis movement. Short piece of tubing and zip ties.

I'm wanting to do grain auger lift like what is shown a few post up, but looking for making the auger. I can design a spiral but no idea if it will work in moving feed.


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