The bluegill (Lepomis macrochirus) is native from the Lake Champlain and
southern Ontario region through the Great Lakes to Minnesota, and south to
northeastern Mexico, the Gulf States, and the Carolinas The species has been widely introduced outside its native range
(Pflieger 1975).

Bluegills are opportunistic feeders which can alter their diet according
to food availability. Fry feed primarily on zooplankton
and small insects. Juveniles and adults feed on zooplankton,
aquatic and terrestrial insects, and some plant materials.

Reproduction
Bluegills are repeat spawners and the spawning season may extend from
spring through summer. Spawning occurs from 17 to
31° C, with peak spawning at 24-27° C. Bluegills are guarding,
nest building lithophils. Nests are usually found in quiet,
shallow (1-3 m) water. Although spawning will occur
over almost any substrate, fine gravel or sand is preferred. Incubation time ranges from 1.5 to 5 days, depending on
ambient water temperature.

Specific Habitat Requirements
Bluegills are most abundant along shoreline areas in lentie and lentic-type environments such as ponds, lakes, reservoirs, and large low velocity streams. In riverine habitats, bluegills are mostly restricted to areas of low velocity. Adult bluegills were captured primarily in backwater areas of the Missouri River. Hardin and Bovee (1978) developed probability of use curves showing that adults prefer current velocities < 10 cm/sec but will tolerate up to 45 cm/sec.

Optimal lacustrine habitat is characterized by fertile lakes, ponds, and
reservoirs with extensive (> 20% of lacustrine surface area) littoral areas
(Emig 1966; Scott and Crossman 1973). However, deeper areas are also required
for overwintering and retreat from the summer heat (Scott and Crossman 1973).

Jenkins (1976) reported a significant positive correlation between TDS levels
of 100-350 ppm and sportfish (including sunfishes) standing crops in a group
of predominately southeastern reservoirs.
Cover in both lacustrine and riverine habitats in the form of submerged
vegetation or logs and brush is utilized by the species, especially juveniles
and small adults (Moyle and Nichols 1973; Scott and Crossman 1973). However,
an excessive abundance of vegetation can inhibit utilization of prey by blue-
gills. Populations of stunted individuals have been associated with an exces-
sive amount of aquatic vegetation which may inhibit the utilization of blue-
gills as prey (Anderson, pers. comm.). Bluegills also nest in unvegetated
areas (Weaver and Ziebell 1976). Lack of cover may also be a problem
(Anderson, pers. comm.).

Water quality criteria for bluegills in both riverine and lacustrine
habitats are outlined as follows: optimal growth and reproductive potential
occurs in waters of low to moderate turbidities (< 50 ppm). Bluegills can tolerate a pH range of 4.0 to 10.3 but pH levels at these extremes have caused at
last partial kills. Optimal levels are 6.5-8.5. Bluegills can tolerate dissolved
oxygen levels < 1.0 nng/1 for short durations but will avoid levels
of 1.5-3.0 mg/1. Optimal levels are > 5.0 mg/1 (Petit
1973).

Bluegills will not tolerate salinities > 5.6 ppt, and
prefer salinity levels < 3.6 ppt.
Adult. Optimal growth of adult bluegills occurs near 27° C . No growth occurs below 10° C or above 30° C (Anderson 1959; Emig
1966). The reported ultimate upper incipient lethal temperature for bluegill
is 35° C. Optimal temperatures for successful embryo development are
22-27° C, and development will occur from 22-34° C . Optimal temperatures for fry are 25-32° C.

Fry will not survive temperatures below 11° C or above 34° C

Juvenile. The highest specific growth rate of juvenile bluegill occur in
waters of 30° C and the growth range is 22-34° C

I have had very good results with Blue Gill.

they are not the fastest growers... however... there are other factors that out weigh this in my opinion.

First, the 1/2 pound size is nice to eat and the meat texture and flavor is (In my opinion) superior to Tilapia, Bass, and Cat fish, comparable to the Crappie.

Next, they breed, REALLY breed. They breed so well for me that they will actually feed the other fish and still leave plenty for grow out next season. Raising these fry/fingerlings is easy, explained below.

Next, they grow through the winter. granted a little slower, but by spring some are ready to be eaten and the others will have a hugh head start on the summer.

Next, they are very tolerant. I find that they can definately handle even higher temps than are mentioned above. They indeed handle a low D.O., and high PH has had little effect on them. And we used to catch them in frozen ponds further north when I was young.

Next, they are great eaters. They will clean up algea on the tank/pool walls, keep bugs that fall in .. cleaned up, and any and all bugs that you throw in, including the BSF which they love. They also take very well to peletized feed.

Finally, they are good for swimming pools, they will sometimes even eat out of your hand. If you put your feet in, they will give you a pedicure (people actually pay big $ for that, I get it for free). Just make sure they are well fed, otherwise they bite a little harder, nothing serious though.

As for raising them, once they start to spawn, if you are able to scoop out the fry and place them in a separate tank, then you will only need to make sure that the tank has a small bubbler. I put over 500 of them in a 200 gallon tank (about 18 inches deep) with a little water mint/celery, and duck weed, to take care of nutrients. The tank was partially shaded to allow the sun to keep it fairly warm, not hot, and not to allow much algea (so I could see them). I found that by letting the water sit out stagnant with only a small bubbler (very small) for a while before I put the fry in, the water fleas (known by many names) and other zooplankton showed up. Once they had multiplied the fry had plenty of food to eat and they were very happy.

Keep them realatively well graded. If there is too much of a difference in size and the feed is limited, then they WILL eat each other. I found that 3 blue gill, 2" in size, can eat 300 tilapia fry in 3 days... yes, I said I found this, I proved it... accidentally of course.

On a cooking note, if you cook them up in a crock pot for 12 - 24 hours (depends on the size of the fish, skeletal mass) you can eat the whole fish up bones and all. Then you get all the calcium and other nutrients. Totally safe for giving to young children too, no risk of a bone slipping down the throat. Of course this is true of all fish, not just Blue gill.

Mathew

I have to have had Bluegill in my AP system for the last 6 months. Growth is slower, but they are a very hardy fish. I had zero deaths until I added fingerling hybrid bass to the same tank, the bass came down with cotton mouth and I lost a bunch of them before I got it controlled, but in all that I only lost 2 bluegill. I have a 275 gallon tote as my tank, with 100 bluegill and 70 bass.
http://www.utahcountyweather.com/Utah_Aquaponic_System.htm