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PostPosted: Jan 3rd, '15, 08:53 
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I think I made my RFF based on how you and Rob have yours Bear. The donut shape outflow or V-notch weir is probably the best option to spread the flow but you could also just try getting a reducer coupling for the outflow that widens the exit outflow. It won't be quite as effective but might be enough since that's the way many people have their RFF. The diagram on the first post (Cecil's) of this thread shows a reducer coupling (hate the name since your really using it to make a larger outflow area) - http://www.koiphen.com/forums/showthread.php?141689-DIY-Radial-Flow-Settler

Cheers

PS - The video clip of Sweetwaters system on that same link shows a ring shape outflow that should work to spread the flow. The video didn't run long enough, I think the water level would eventually be at the lower edge of the holes in the ring but I'm not sure how his is run.


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PostPosted: Jan 3rd, '15, 09:46 
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Scotty,

Doesn't the fact that it is under water negate some of the benefits of the standard weir? I should have been a little more effective at the surface, with more water entry points to further spread the flow. On another video I have see (can't find at the moment) the same type "ring" at the the waters surface. But with slots cut out by a table saw with a thin fine toothed blade. A little less than a 1/4in (.6cm) apart.


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PostPosted: Jan 3rd, '15, 10:05 
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Bear........... I've got a spare cone (you know those big black ones)


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PostPosted: Jan 3rd, '15, 10:24 
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FF if you could find that link it would be appreciated.

At the moment we are receiving good rain through regular squalls coming across, my main tank and top tank are full. Will check the two tanks at the fish system when it stops. Sparing a thought for our members in SA and Victoria experiencing heat wave and fires. Wish I could send some of this rain your way.


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PostPosted: Jan 3rd, '15, 10:26 
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No problems mate will talk to you in the next few days on it. Hope the new year is going well for you. Cheers


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PostPosted: Jan 3rd, '15, 11:38 
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floridafishin wrote:
Scotty,

Doesn't the fact that it is under water negate some of the benefits of the standard weir? I should have been a little more effective at the surface, with more water entry points to further spread the flow. On another video I have see (can't find at the moment) the same type "ring" at the the waters surface. But with slots cut out by a table saw with a thin fine toothed blade. A little less than a 1/4in (.6cm) apart.


This was just his startup video and I don't think he runs it like this normally but yes I think it would run better at the surface.

The slots would be better than circular holes, but I think they are harder to cut evenly all the way around when you compare to just drilling a hole. On the other hand using a tablesaw as you suggested, instead of an angle grinder as I was thinking, would probably work pretty well and would give you uniform depth to the slots. It might be a dangerous cut on the tablesaw with this shape though. I think it would be hard to support the piece evenly and possibly could twist causing kickback although the blade you suggested should help with that.

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PostPosted: Jan 3rd, '15, 11:58 
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Bear you could also search conical fermenters


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PostPosted: Jan 3rd, '15, 12:20 
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Have had a bit of look at them charlie but why waste a good fermenter. What date are you back home mate?


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PostPosted: Jan 3rd, '15, 12:45 
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True true lol. I'm home on the 14th but only for one week then I'm away again for 2 weeks. So I'll be heading up your way between the 4th - 17th feb. Would anywhere in that time frame be ok with you, I'll touch base with chainsaw if he will be available


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PostPosted: Jan 3rd, '15, 13:02 
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No problems will send you another email later, cheers


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PostPosted: Jan 4th, '15, 05:20 
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CC,

Still can't find the vid but it is almost exactly the same as the one in the above video. With the exception of having a longer standpipe to get the ring to the waters surface. Then slots instead of holes to more evenly distribute the flow. Same type of slots on your pipes in your bio filter. That you posted on coaches thread. Slot the top of the pipe, leave the bottom whole. Just make sure the bottom of the slots are just under the waters surface. And as Scotty mentioned it can bind an kick when cutting with a table saw. But I have found dragging it backwards over the saw blade greatly reduces this.


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PostPosted: Jan 4th, '15, 06:11 
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.....don't know what you mean with "dragging it backwards over the saw blade" - but I assume it's the same as what I suggest:

Mount the saw-blade in reverse and take it nice and slow with the cutting (...now actually more of a milling action) and will get clean cuts not bitting or breaking or splittering or throwing bits nad pieces all over the place!!

Cheers,

thjakits 8)


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PostPosted: Jan 4th, '15, 06:20 
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Thank you all, going to visit friends today and the wife volunteered a couple of fish for lunch. No prize to guess who had to catch and clean while certain suggester remained asleep. Caught two with the larger one being 1186 grams and 906 grams after cleaning.

Time to take the bigger ones out as they are taking all the food.
Attachment:
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image.jpg [ 75.25 KiB | Viewed 4765 times ]

Have a good day all and I hope the cool change has come through SA and Victoria.


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PostPosted: Jan 4th, '15, 08:27 
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Thjakits,

I was just describing running the pvc over the blade from the opposite side of normal operation. I even cut mt 55gal drums this way, with my circular saw. Just start at the far end and pull the saw backwards to you.


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PostPosted: Jan 4th, '15, 10:52 
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.......I see .......
Try it with the blade mounted
backwards and you can cut forward and still get a even better cut!! No way the blade could grab the tube/barrel/etc....
The way you do it the blade teeth still "dig in" - blade backwards it doesn't really cut it rather "drags" over the plastic, starts to melt it and throws out the bits - sounds rough but is very smooth cutting and a super clean cut.
Jut cut slow...


thjakits


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