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PostPosted: Nov 21st, '15, 15:53 
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FT#2 finally picked up by hubby!

Woo!

Image

Image

Now I just need to figure out the best way to cut the rope for access. I'm thinking of going conservative and just making the inlet hole bigger...


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PostPosted: Nov 21st, '15, 17:59 
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Lol "Cut the top." Not rope!


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PostPosted: Nov 21st, '15, 19:34 
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I agree glue all pressure pipes but its worth keeping any distribution pipes around the GB's just pushed in, it makes it easier for cleaning and maintenance, use a stainless screw if you think it needs it. A few barrel unions here and there also make other pipework also easily cleaned without the risk of them popping apart which I think historically is the biggest fish killer behind leaving the top up hose left turned on.

Cool FT! In regards to cutting it just be careful as the moulded top plays a part in the overall structural integrity of the tank. Ive seen members cut a window between the raised sections on top without issue, just don't cut into the moulds or corners etc. Hope that makes sense..


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PostPosted: Nov 22nd, '15, 14:42 
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This is what a barrel union looks like. It is the large item in the centre with ribbing on it. Unscrews and the piping to the left is then removable.

And what pipes that have been glued look like :-) See the pretty colours.


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PostPosted: Nov 22nd, '15, 16:33 
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Charlie wrote:
I agree glue all pressure pipes but its worth keeping any distribution pipes around the GB's just pushed in, it makes it easier for cleaning and maintenance, use a stainless screw if you think it needs it. A few barrel unions here and there also make other pipework also easily cleaned without the risk of them popping apart which I think historically is the biggest fish killer behind leaving the top up hose left turned on...


Plus One - but heavily chamfer ends and wrap two layers of teflon tape over chamfer and non-chamfered material, and then use small stainless screw..
It won't ever move or leak.. BUT.. can be dismantled..

We always decide to change, especially a first attempt..

Big Exception.. Buried or inaccessible pipes - GLUED.. :headbang:

Barrel Unions.. worth the expense when used with items, often needing removal..
eg. stand pipe.. so you have a completely clear tank
Attachment:
AP-Barrel Union-StandPipe.jpg
AP-Barrel Union-StandPipe.jpg [ 18.89 KiB | Viewed 3190 times ]


All just the different ways we choose to build things.. There is no one correct way :support:
..
.


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PostPosted: Nov 22nd, '15, 17:07 
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BuiDoi wrote:
Charlie wrote:
I agree glue all pressure pipes but its worth keeping any distribution pipes around the GB's just pushed in, it makes it easier for cleaning and maintenance, use a stainless screw if you think it needs it. A few barrel unions here and there also make other pipework also easily cleaned without the risk of them popping apart which I think historically is the biggest fish killer behind leaving the top up hose left turned on...


Plus One - but heavily chamfer ends and wrap two layers of teflon tape over chamfer and non-chamfered material, and then use small stainless screw..
It won't ever move or leak.. BUT.. can be dismantled..

We always decide to change, especially a first attempt..

Big Exception.. Buried or inaccessible pipes - GLUED.. :headbang:

Barrel Unions.. worth the expense when used with items, often needing removal..
eg. stand pipe.. so you have a completely clear tank
Attachment:
AP-Barrel Union-StandPipe.jpg


All just the different ways we choose to build things.. There is no one correct way :support:
..
.


Ok... Had to google what you meant by "chamfer the pipe" lol!

Hubby's angle grinder has a flapper disc for smoothing metal edges - could I use this to chamfer the pic pipe going into the elbows?


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PostPosted: Nov 22nd, '15, 17:33 
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SydneyChick wrote:


Ok... Had to google what you meant by "chamfer the pipe" lol!

Hubby's angle grinder has a flapper disc for smoothing metal edges - could I use this to chamfer the pic pipe going into the elbows?


Lol, really love your keenness to jump on the power tools.

It is pvc pipe :-) a file or even some coarse sand paper will be more than enough and probably quicker too if you feel the need to chamfer. No need to chamfer if you are gluing. But always a good idea to deburr after cutting the pipe no matter how you are making you pipe connections.


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PostPosted: Nov 22nd, '15, 18:05 
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I use an ALDI Belt/Disc sanding station..
the flapper disc would be fine if you can try clamping the grinder and hand spin the tube at a slight angle to the disc. Just a slight changer...

The combination of the chamfer and.the.tape, gives a good seal...

It works for me..!

And plus one to the comment... "pleased to.see you giving it a go" :-)
..
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PostPosted: Nov 23rd, '15, 11:36 
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Lol! :lol: I do love the angle grinder! Useful for so many jobs! Unfortunately hubby had to buy a new one because the disc got frozen. Nothing we tried could allow us to change the disc.

Can anyone illuminate me on exactly how this changed thing is supposed to be done?


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PostPosted: Nov 23rd, '15, 13:00 
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..
do you have the special spanner thingo.. with the two pins..

Most grinders have a press-button lock on the back of the gearbox.. You press it to lock the gears, and then turn the clamp nut/disc Anti-Clockwise, looking at it..

Sometimes you need three hands.. the extra one to hold the gear-lock in.
I can never find my undoo-er-er, so fortunately just gripping the old disc (one hand) and turning anti-clockwise, works..
Press lock, turn anti-clockwise one hand, keep pressure, locking the button, grip with other hand also and really turn.. slacken the pressure, and the lock releases.
..
.


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PostPosted: Nov 23rd, '15, 13:05 
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I guess the nut might be rusted? or it was loose and has galled on? or you are turning it the wrong way? hard to tell without seeing it.


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PostPosted: Nov 23rd, '15, 13:09 
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Aren't you meant to throw it away and buy a new one when the disc is worn down? :laughing3: Oh wait, that's the throw-away society, which I try to avoid ;)

You really need the tool, trying to undo it by hand is sure to end in tears. Push the lock button down- you might need to rotate the disc a little to lock it in, then it should be easy to undo. As they say in America, righty tighty, lefty loosey!

Unplug/remove battery before you try this, we don't want to hear about amputated fingers!


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PostPosted: Nov 23rd, '15, 15:02 
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We tried the special tool. We tried a spanner. We tried gentle tapping with a hammer to loosen the "nut", we tried tapping with a chisel and hammer. (And yes we did press the button on the gearbox when we tried all these things!)

We were looking at all the YouTube videos for ideas and even in desperation tried the extreme move of smashing the disc with a hammer.... Didn't work. :upset:

I meant to ask before - how do you exactly do the chamfer and tape thing? (Not how do you do this changed thing lol)


Last edited by SydneyChick on Nov 23rd, '15, 15:03, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Nov 23rd, '15, 18:43 
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Which way are you trying to turn the lock nut? Use a longer lever, something like a pipe over the tool handle. In many years of using a number of angle grinders and hundreds of disc changes, I've never had one thats been too tight to easily undo.
Are you sure you haven't burred the thread, stopping the nut from undoing?
What brand is it?

A fine file should work perfectly well for removing burrs from the end of the PVC pipe, and adding a slight chamfer. An angle grinder is a bit OTT for the job ;)


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PostPosted: Nov 24th, '15, 06:37 
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Return it to Bunnings and say it didnt work! Ask for replacement :D


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