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PostPosted: Jan 2nd, '11, 06:28 
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thought I had attached photo will try again


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PostPosted: Jan 2nd, '11, 07:10 
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Hi

Photos 2nd try after resizing.

Blue roto moulded tubs were conveyor roller pallet covers, apparently made from the same stuff as blue barrels. They measure 3000 x 600 x 600. Don't know if they will become grow beds or maybe fish tank. Possibly 1 of each for trout system during the winter.

Todd


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PostPosted: Jan 2nd, '11, 07:19 
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Hi Tod,
Looks as if we have the same system from Dean.
I too am having Hi PH issues with my system, but they are starting to settle down now.

Did you add the shell grit to the clay at the start like Deans has in his instructions?
I think this is what is causing the Hi PH, in hind sight should have left it out and only added it in if need be?
Just make sure you add some Iron Chelates to the water. I'm adding 1 scoop (5 grams) every month and this has made everything nice and green.

I am also adding 2 caps of seasol every 2 weeks just to help while the system is still young.

The PH is now down to around 7.4 - 7.8 and over time it will go down lower.

I was trying to lower it by other means but decided all I was doing was stressing the fish and since they were eating happily and I wasn't loosing any.

If you add the iron and seasol, time will deal with the Hi PH .

Look forward to seeing the pics.

:flower:


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PostPosted: Jan 2nd, '11, 07:32 
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Hi Brett

I agree with you about the shell grit seems to be the only thing that can be keeping the ph high. Its holding at 8 constantly now, should settle down given time. All other parameters are fine.
Have only added iron once so far but haven't put any seasol in the system as yet. Would charlie carp do the same job or being a dead fish product could it affect the ammonia levels adversely.

Todd


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PostPosted: Jan 2nd, '11, 09:40 
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You will know when you need more iron your plants will start to yellow. I have a fairly full bed so just add once a month as I know it's being locked out by the Hi Ph.

As for Charlie Carp I'm not sure? :? Hopefully some one else can answer that question.

:flower:


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PostPosted: Jan 2nd, '11, 17:12 
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
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Shellgrit wont take ph over 7.5 theres something else thats doing it


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PostPosted: Jan 2nd, '11, 17:35 
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Just saw the mention of the blue troughs for trout. My first thought is that it would have to be covered. Trout like to leap out of the water to catch insects flying by and sometimes keep on going. I remember a story of 25 trout being introduced to a system on day 1. By day 2 24 trout were dead outside the tank. Either cover the tank or drop the water level. Enjoy the new system! As Food&Fish says when the Ph is over 7.4 the shell grit will not dissolve. That is why it is used tp buffer the system and hold it up to 7.4. Don't strss about high Ph in a new system (unless the fish are not happy) as it is part of the cycling process.


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PostPosted: Jan 2nd, '11, 18:17 
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
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Decal wrote:
You will know when you need more iron your plants will start to yellow. I have a fairly full bed so just add once a month as I know it's being locked out by the Hi Ph.

As for Charlie Carp I'm not sure? :? Hopefully some one else can answer that question.

:flower:
\
Seasol is the go i dont think anybody has tried charley carp


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PostPosted: Jan 2nd, '11, 20:59 
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I remember using Charlie Carp a few years back, no need really as we get all the nutrients from the fish food itself. It is fish safe though.


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PostPosted: Jan 13th, '11, 11:28 
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Had a break in the rain so took some photos of the garden & AP.
Wifes pumpkin patch & garden beds going berserk, mocks me about the rate of growth in the AP grow bed (not a true believer yet)
Having the FT in the shed is so much better, can see the SP's feeding & actually get access to the tank. Should have put more thought into the position of things in the first place.[img


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PostPosted: Jan 13th, '11, 11:31 
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more photos


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PostPosted: Jan 13th, '11, 20:52 
He who laughs last...laughs longest...

Your system is "young"... fish are small... give it 3-6 months and I reckon you might be able to give a bit back to the missus.... :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Jan 23rd, '11, 07:08 
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My ammonia levels have been remaining constant at .25 all other results are fine. Nitrite 0, Nitrate 20-40 & ph a constant 8. water temp around the 20. fish seem fine & are still feeding although i have backed the feed off a bit to see if that made any difference. I also turned the system to CF for a period to see if that had an effect. I tested some tap water result 0 so its not the test kit.
My question should i be concerned & try to get it down or just keep an eye on it & is a constant .25 ammonia reading acceptable.
I have 29 SP about 75mm long in a 1000lt tank & 1 byap grow bed usually F&D 15 mins on 30 drain. System is about 3 months old.

Todd


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PostPosted: Jan 23rd, '11, 10:07 
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Mine sat at .25 for a long time, often as long as a year. The fish seemed fine, but it is suboptimal.


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PostPosted: Jan 23rd, '11, 11:02 
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Hi Todd,
I woundnt be to worried my system is now only just starting to come into it's own, it has taken 6 months but finally it's there. To help with the high Ph just at 1 large scoop of iron chelates once a month, it comes in the box. It has made a huge difference to the plants along wit 2 caps of charlie carp every 2 weeks.

The Ph will start to come as the system ages.

Just need to be patient, which is easier said then done!

Since we both have the same system happy to help with any questions?

:flower:


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