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PostPosted: Jul 14th, '13, 04:42 
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I feel as if I've read hundreds of pages, all-in-all, of several guides over the past 3 months. My system won't cycle. Now its full of algae (jungle), ph is still <4.0, and plants are yellow and dying (very small 3inches tall).

I've already tried cycling twice now. This last time the P/H started ~7.0(as usual), then within a week it was 6.0, then another week <4.0. I am really frustrated. I put a chunk of my savings into this.


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PostPosted: Jul 14th, '13, 04:50 
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What would cause, on two separate attempted cycles, the P/H to drop from 7.0 to <4.0 in a matter of two weeks???

I realize that it won't cycle with the P/H that low. I bought P/H up, but that's like a 'bandaid' right?

What would cause this?

The first cycle attempt I used household ammonia, and the second I used a dead shrimp. Also I bought a ammonia test, and it is always 2.0ppm ammonia.

I have never seen Nitrates/nitrite with my strip test (since day 1...I did 30 days on cycle 1, about 30 days into cycle two now).

Help please...


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PostPosted: Jul 14th, '13, 06:12 
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Hiya jninja, welcome to the forum. Try not to get disheartened you've come to the right place, there are a lot of bright sparks, sharp on knowledge, experience and wit, on this forum all eager to help. To assist them they will need a few details. What is your growing medium, water source, system size and layout? Any other information you may feel relevant and photos will help too.


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PostPosted: Jul 14th, '13, 06:25 
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Ok cancel that, jumped the gun...
I use a sock with shell grit in it to raise the ph, cheap stuff, poultry feed shells. Normally the ph rises when cycling so it is strange indeed.
You need to keep the sunlight off the water to kill off the algae, this includes the sides of the ibc.
A better test kit wouldn't hurt either like the one always recommended on this forum.


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PostPosted: Jul 14th, '13, 08:09 
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Thank you for your reply. I just don't understand what is going on. We had it in a spot getting sun from rise til dusk. We are moving it to a spot where it will get half that amount.

I understand that there are tibbits here and there that may/will help, but does anyone have an idea why the p/h would drop so quickly??? 7.0 to <4.0 in less than 3 weeks...twice..

Also a better test kit may help me, but the one I have is very consistent if nothing else. Sometimes I checked 2-3 times a day.


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PostPosted: Jul 17th, '13, 03:02 
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Anyone?


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PostPosted: Jul 17th, '13, 03:41 
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What media are you using in the GB's?

Could be that the rock you are using are reacting with the water and acidifying your water thereby dropping your pH.

Also, how clean is your plumbing of solvents etc?


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PostPosted: Jul 17th, '13, 05:56 
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Yeah I thought the same but then read the first page...
I read somewhere that algae can mess with your ph and the check was to test ph in the morning then in the afternoon and see if there is a difference. It could be the residual hsehld amm?


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PostPosted: Jul 19th, '13, 02:22 
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Thanks for suggestions. I'm using hydroton (supposed to be the best).


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PostPosted: Jul 19th, '13, 10:10 
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It kind of seems like no is reading through this thread. The first page could answer every question I've been asked. Seems like I have a pretty unique situation- as nobody knows the answer.


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PostPosted: Jul 19th, '13, 11:47 
What are your current readings... pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate?


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PostPosted: Jul 19th, '13, 12:23 
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Cycling drops the ph, in your case a lot. Shell grit should help stabilize things. Ditch the unreliable strips, and pick up an API Freshwater Master Test Kit. It will give more reliable readings. When the ph drops too low, it kills your nitrification bacteria. Shell grit. In a sock. Or something to that effect. Shell grit.


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PostPosted: Jul 19th, '13, 12:43 
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I also suggest you get another test kit before embarking on to drastic actions.

My pH drift down to low 5's within a few weeks if i dont add lime - or keep filling my "shell grit bed"



Suggest you slowly try adding lime every ~ third day and see what changes occur.


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PostPosted: Jul 19th, '13, 13:12 
Ronmaggi wrote:
Ditch the unreliable strips, and pick up an API Freshwater Master Test Kit. It will give more reliable readings.

:headbang:


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PostPosted: Jul 19th, '13, 22:20 
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Finally the big guns fire :wav:


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