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PostPosted: Feb 25th, '07, 17:21 
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If you want to post more than 3 photos - you just put them in another post with some words like 'here are some more' ;-)


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PostPosted: Feb 25th, '07, 17:36 
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VB, your tank will fit inside the frame i built. 3.6mts is a standard length so there will be no extra cutting. Dozen nails, 2mt rock, 1 mt sand and find a helper with a spirit level. It really is an easy job just a bit time consuming. Can't tell you how good it feels to turn the tap and use that free water!We located water inlet close to shed roof which didn't correlate with where pipe outlet was at base but figured it was better to relocate outlet at base, than unduly run extra pipe across top to reach inlet. Our tank people even gave me a gate valve and thread tape to block up the old outlet.

Redirecting pipes is cut, blue glue, join, elbows, done. You may wish to put in a 10 litre overflow box to allow excess water to pool if it is all coming into one stormie line like mine. Put it in line, easy peesy. Believe me, I am usless but have managed to get these things done so far with help from some crusty ol rellies.

Daughter has daddy's marketing gene and can't wait for fish to grow so she can start knocking on doors. Mindful courtesy of AA tho of doing the right thing, so prolly need to investigate the retail sale permit side of things.


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PostPosted: Feb 25th, '07, 17:59 
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One of the reasons it has taken me so long is that I stupidly put my aquaponics pond in the way of where the tank had to travel to get to its final destination. I have since moved them - so that excuse is gone.

This tank will go on the shed (I know a bit of overkill for shed - but water can be pumped to it from the house tank, which I do not have yet, when the house tank fills up). The base for the house tank will require quite a bit o digging to get it leve - so I intend to get a bobcat in to do it. At the same time I will get the operator to level the base for the 18,000 litre tank and dig the hole I need for the sump for tmy planned larger aquaponics system.

Lots of work ahead of me regarding the house tank - cause the water will be going down then up - so the existing doenpipes have to be replaced with ones that can be sealed.


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PostPosted: Feb 25th, '07, 18:15 
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A water tank can NEVER be too big. Unless your land is heavily undulating, the only thing that really needs to be level is your frame, which you can dig out with a mattock. Bit of mucking about but dasall. You can get your rock and sand for the price of a bobcat if you have a friend with a trailer. One cubic metre is about 20 barrow loads which don't take long to move. Mind you i am a bit overweight and need the work! Must re-read your system thread so i get where ya coming from.


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PostPosted: Feb 25th, '07, 19:13 
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Because I need sufficient drop from the roof to where the tank is going for the down up water flow, I need to dig out a bit of land. 22,500 litre tanks are pretty tall - as it is I am getting a squat one but it is stil something like 2.5 metres tall from memory. Also - my back is rooted from a car accident I had 4 years ago and I have learnt what my limitations are (so as not to suffer for weeks after). I reckon if I get the cat in then I can get all sorts done and save me the pain. This is one of the reasons for the delay - I want to be sure I know all the jobs that need to be done at once. BTW the hole needed for the sump is about 2 cubic metres. Not something I am keen to do by hand. The bloke I will get over has a bobcat as well as a digger that could dig my hole.

Yeh have a look at my thread - not real exciting though.


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PostPosted: Feb 25th, '07, 19:47 
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Digging holes def no fun. Don't know much bout sumps so need to read up. Hope the back's ok.


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PostPosted: Feb 25th, '07, 19:51 
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Mine is going to be a pretty serious sump because of the way I have designed my big system - which allows for expansion also - so don't get too worried about that.


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PostPosted: Feb 26th, '07, 06:04 
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VB, i am no chemist but that side of things seems reasonably easy to pick up and quantify in AP. Don't really get the sump bit nor the electrical whys and wherefors.

Is the sump to store the volume of water that ur growbeds have so that your fishtank volumes remain constant? Does it serve the same purpose as an ibc? Can i use one of my 250lt platsic drums as a sump?

Will take some pics of tank pump and connecting bits later 2day to see if i can find out what does what. Thinking about growing rainbows over winter. If i keep the tank filter running it may give them that current flow they seem to like. Need to read more on this too.


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PostPosted: Feb 26th, '07, 10:17 
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s the sump to store the volume of water that ur growbeds have so that your fishtank volumes remain constant?


Yep - for me the sump will need to hold the total of what the grow-beds hold on the flood cycle as well as additional water to allow the pump to operate and to provide for transpiration and evaporation over a reasonable period. Sump is the lowest part of my system - which is why it will be dug in.

If you don't understand - have a look at my system thread from here and you should understand - if not feel free to ask questions there and I will respond. If you want to know then others probably will also.


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 Post subject: Re: Tragic's new hobby
PostPosted: Feb 26th, '07, 20:25 
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Just spent ages reading Gary D's thread. The learning curve here is off the chart.

If i keep it simple to start, i won't run a separate biofilter. Been advised not to put a reducer on my spa pump so will buy a pump, a bubbler, timer,testing kit, scoria,assorted fittings and initial fish food. When i catch up on the maggott thread etc, will swap to that.

Looks like i lucked out with the existing spa as it would have been my highest cost item. Haven't decided exactly where to locate GB's. May just place them around the tank and let them drain straight back in for simplicity.

Reckon i can get up and running for 3-400 bucks. See how we go.

Do i need to run water thru the GB's first for a period b4 fish stocking, or get the fish and monitor closely?


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PostPosted: Feb 26th, '07, 21:42 
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TT, you could always fit a by-pass to the pump therefore not increasing back pressure by reducing it or restricting it, but instead fit a throttled bypass to circ. water straight back to the tank.


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PostPosted: Feb 27th, '07, 05:15 
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Thanks Steve will def look into that. Could cut my start up costs in half. If i understand you, i can have that bypass as well as pipes going straight to the GB's running off the one pump, right?


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PostPosted: Feb 27th, '07, 05:37 
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Hmmm,if bypass runs back to tank, i don't need a bubbler.

Had a chat to a local aquarium guy last night. Was talking 5 bucks for SP fingerlings. Think i can source them for about a buck tho. He was pretty full on about my 1000 lt tank needing its water changed 3-4 times/hr, ie 4000lt/hr pump. This sounds a lot. Guess he was coming at it from his side where water has to be perfect all the time in 40-50 lt fishtank systems otherwise it turns to crap in a hurry.


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PostPosted: Feb 27th, '07, 05:46 
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Tragic, that rate of change over would be excellent,. My system cycles at 50% change over every 1.5 hours, and I have 220+ barra in 3500 litres and they are going fine.


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PostPosted: Feb 27th, '07, 06:46 
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Thanks Mon, if i end up using the spa pump which is the plan, it would appear i could comfortably stock 50+ Sp fingerlings bc with the size of the spa pump, the cycling time will be the least of my issues and could gimme a bit of a "newbie buffer".

If i put a tap in my bypass line, i will be able to open it up further as fish grow and i need to cycle my water more frequently. Can i do that without the tap creating the very problem i am trying to alleviate by using the bypass? No point putting a partially closed tap in bypass line if it is just gunna stuff my pump.


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