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PostPosted: Jul 18th, '17, 07:42 
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I need a freshwater monitor system that reads ammonia, nitrates, nitrites, and ph correct? anything else?


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PostPosted: Jul 18th, '17, 08:24 
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Most people use the API Freshwater master test kit, it's about $30 US and requires you to run the tests. There are some more expensive options using meters, I'm not sure if they are practical unless you don't care about the cost or plan on going commercial in the near future.


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PostPosted: Jul 18th, '17, 08:28 
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Thank you. I just saw it on amazon. I figured that would be the one.

Now the fun question. Are the right ranges for each test on the kit? or do you have them?


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PostPosted: Jul 18th, '17, 09:54 
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The right ranges are not listed in the kit.

Ideally you want ammonia to be zero and nitrite to be zero. If you don't have that then you at least want the Total ammonia levels to be low enough that you aren't in the toxic range based on this chart (second one down) - http://ibcofaquaponics.com/information/tables-and-charts/.

If the nitrites aren't zero then you should salt your system to 1 part per thousand with uniodized salt (NaCl) that doesn't have any anti-caking agents added. This helps protect the fish because the chloride ion competes with the nitrite ion.

Nitrates aren't as critical and I've seen levels up in the hundreds but somewhere between zero and 40 would be a good level to shoot for. Even though you may not see any problems I'd try to keep it below 100 and certainly below 200 ppm. A rising level is an indication that you need more plants or fewer fish.

pH - shoot for 6.2 to 7.2 but lower and higher will work - you get into problems with how low the test kit can read (6.0 but you can't tell once it hits that if the pH is lower) and how well the bacteria in the biofilter function at the low end and on the other end you start having to deal with nutrient availability (iron lockout is common). Most fish are probably good between 5.5 and 8.5 but you're better off keeping away from the extremes. The bacteria actually do better with the higher pH but they do pretty well in that range I gave earlier. Any changes to pH should be done gradually and with preventing fish stress and ammonia toxicity in mind (raising the pH can make the ammonia that is there more toxic).

You'll also have to look at water temp because of the fish requirements and the ammonia toxicity.

That should get you started.


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PostPosted: Jul 18th, '17, 10:24 
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Wow, that is a lot of information, but thank you.


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