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 Post subject: Re: First crack at AP
PostPosted: Jul 31st, '10, 22:19 
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
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Joined: Dec 6th, '07, 01:13
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Stand pipe and timer operation is nice and simple. Some pumps definitely will last longer if you are not turning them on/off all the time but others seem to do fine with the cycling and I've even met some pumps that you can't run continuously but I rather hope you are not using one of those energy hogs on an AP system.

I've got systems running both ways and so far I haven't had a timer controlled pump give up on me.

Looking good by the way, Welcome


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 Post subject: Re: First crack at AP
PostPosted: Sep 9th, '10, 19:23 
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Joined: Jun 23rd, '10, 20:24
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Hello all,
Sorry about the lack of on going input but a few issues have been in the way,
However,
having been testing, playing, watching system with big wide anticipation eyes, progress seemed slow as far as bacteria presenting themselves and plants had to strive to survive on the odd dose of seasol for a good many weeks and wives garden patch seems to be growing well (but with mutiple weeds and bugs).
I went down to the local (small) river bottled a few litres and put into my system, 6 days later I found on 1st test, lower ammonia than before.
Next test showed a good nitrate result, ( hard to judge as guide sheet goes from 0ppm yellow to 5ppm light orange) but it is there on the orange side.
Nitrites test showed quite high, 5ppm, but I believe this is quite normal for a new establishing system, fish seem happy but just added some salt to help the little ones.
Ph has been dropping slowly over the period, should I put in a limestone or concrete rock to help stabilise?
Things seem to be starting.


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 Post subject: Re: First crack at AP
PostPosted: Sep 9th, '10, 20:23 
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Joined: Sep 6th, '10, 14:42
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You could try a hybrid system by simply adding a bell over your standpipes, it will decrease your drain time while the pump is running, if you get it working down pat you could even consider reducing pump size or not having to increase pump size when you expand as most will with this obsession hehehe, having the drain hole is a suggestion I have heard as a fail safe idea in bell siphons. Just a suggestion and worth a try. I like the idea of pea gravel at the bottom and hydroton at the top, hydroton has a good wick effect, but you might want to go all pea gravel in a GB if you want to grow corn or plants that need better root support. most people cringe at the idea of hydroton because of the expense but it make sense to go 50/50. what have you used as your FT. I'm looking at doing a IBC with the barrels as extra grow beds.


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 Post subject: Re: First crack at AP
PostPosted: Sep 9th, '10, 20:44 
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Joined: Jun 12th, '10, 05:50
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Hey gtrmosh, welcome to the fun :twisted:

Make sure to feed your fish very little as you go through the cycling, overfeeding could be a major problem while cycling as it would produce ammonia and nitrite spikes.

Also, fish like pipes/want to escape so make sure there isn't anything they could swim into and die ;]

Let the missus feed them every now and then, she ought to enjoy it and get hooked while at the same time taking the chore off your hands, giving you oodles of time for beer and fish counting :geek:


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 Post subject: Re: First crack at AP
PostPosted: Sep 30th, '10, 16:42 
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Joined: Jun 23rd, '10, 20:24
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Location: Australia WA
System seems to be on the go.
Nitrates around 40ppm, nitrites 0, ammonia .25ppm.
Had some low Ph readings so added a small handful of slaked lime which worked a treat, then added some shell grit to try and keep it stable. All ok so far.
Fish are fussy buggers, they don't seem to take to the pellets all that well, but do eat eventually. (Silver perch)
Have lots of different veggies I am trialling, however the Beetroot roots have already started to invade my drainage, must be a good sign I guess.


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 Post subject: Re: First crack at AP
PostPosted: Sep 30th, '10, 18:23 
gtrmosh wrote:
Fish are fussy buggers, they don't seem to take to the pellets all that well, but do eat eventually. (Silver perch)

Silver Perch wont really eat consistantly, or well... until the water temp rises above 18-20 degrees... preferring a range of 22-30 degrees...


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