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 Post subject: Other Water Pathogens
PostPosted: Jan 9th, '11, 11:26 
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I've been reading up on my water supply, and I think I'm more worried about it than before. We have always drank filtered / bottled water out of taste and chlorine concerns. No I'm wondering if I need an expensive filter for the fish tank. The following chemicals are added to my water supply:

aluminum sulfate
calcium hydroxide (I think this is slaked lime?)
chlorine
sodium silicofluoride
"blended phosphates"


I know I can off-gas the chlorine by letting it sit in an open tank (3-6 days depending on volume?).

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=7676

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=6903


Calcium hydroxide should effect the pH of the water but not much else (Maybe salt levels)?

viewtopic.php?f=18&t=6953&p=240454&hilit=calcium+hydroxide#p240454


Sodium silicofluoride is added for tooth health, but has links to bone cancer if ingested. Obviously, I'm wanting that out of my system. From what I reading, I would need to distill the water or go reverse osmosis filtration?

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=258&hilit=floride

I think aluminum is 'OK' for fish as well, but I know it's not great for humans in large doses or with health issues.

The average copper level at tap is 86 ppb
The average Fluoride level is up to also 1.5 ppm
Haloacetic Acid is 28 ppb
Trihalomethanes is 48 ppb

Has any one else looked beyond the chlorine and chloramine? Am I missing a post somewhere?


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PostPosted: Jan 10th, '11, 10:24 
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Instead of filtering your tap water is it possible to add rainwater harvesting to your setup? If you get charged per gallon then it is cheaper to top up with rainwater too, besides the tap water chemical concerns you have.

FWIW I've never been concerned with our tap water for AP use, because to me unless there are heavy metals in it everything gets re-scrambled by the microbes anyway.


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PostPosted: Jan 10th, '11, 20:01 
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Dave Donley wrote:
Instead of filtering your tap water is it possible to add rainwater harvesting to your setup? If you get charged per gallon then it is cheaper to top up with rainwater too, besides the tap water chemical concerns you have.

FWIW I've never been concerned with our tap water for AP use, because to me unless there are heavy metals in it everything gets re-scrambled by the microbes anyway.


I've been thinking about that too. At this point, I would have to build a system in the field. Eventually, we're going to put in an elaborate system to harvest all the run off from the 5-6 acres of field. It may be our best bet at this point. I could not do roof harvesting as the roof is painted with galvanizing paint which can release zinc and other junk over time.

We are planning on going that route in the long run, but also (hopefully) drilling a well at a later date. Due to costs, that's at least a year or 2 or more off.

I would like to be able to have a reliable backup water supply as well, even during drought conditions (which haven't been uncommon here in the last 5 years). I would really like to know what the bare minimum must be done to the water to make it AP worthy.


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PostPosted: Jan 11th, '11, 01:41 
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It might be enough to just buy a big jug of activated charcoal from the local fish store, and run your tap water through that before aging it.


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PostPosted: Jan 11th, '11, 06:05 
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I had thought about activated carbon. I was also debating building a large charcoal / stand filter, but I wasn't sure if that would be enough to get everything out that is necessary (or just desired). This is basically what I have been looking at with the substitution of blue barrels for the garbage cans:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FnaX1WvP ... re=related

But I guess the question is what do I NEED to worry about and will it work for that?


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PostPosted: Jan 11th, '11, 06:20 
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I actually just found this:

http://www.greenfacts.org/en/fluoride/f ... onment.htm

Quote:
6.1 What levels of fluoride exposure are harmful to aquatic organisms?

The source document for this Digest states:

Fluoride did not affect growth or chemical oxygen demand degrading capacity of activated sludge at concentrations of 100 mg/litre. The EC50 for inhibition of bacterial nitrification was 1218 mg fluoride/litre. Ninety-six-hour EC50s, based on growth, for freshwater and marine algae were 123 and 81 mg fluoride/litre, respectively.

Forty-eight-hour LC50s for aquatic invertebrates range from 53 to 304 mg/litre. The most sensitive freshwater invertebrates were the fingernail clam (Musculium transversum), with statistically significant mortality (50%) observed at a concentration of 2.8 mg fluoride/litre in an 8-week flow-through experiment, and several net-spinning caddisfly species (freshwater; family: Hydropsychidae), with "safe concentrations" (8760-h EC0.01s) ranging from 0.2 to 1.2 mg fluoride/litre. The brine shrimp (Artemia salina) was the most sensitive marine species tested. In a 12-day static renewal test, statistically significant growth impairment occurred at 5.0 mg fluoride/litre.

Ninety-six-hour LC50s for freshwater fish range from 51 mg/litre (rainbow trout, Oncorhynchus mykiss) to 460 mg/litre (threespine stickleback, Gasterosteus aculeatus). All of the acute toxicity tests (96 h) on marine fish gave results greater than 100 mg/litre. Inorganic fluoride toxicity to freshwater fish appears to be negatively correlated with water hardness (calcium carbonate) and positively correlated with temperature. The symptoms of acute fluoride intoxication include lethargy, violent and erratic movement and death. Twenty-day LC50s for rainbow trout ranged from 2.7 to 4.7 mg fluoride/litre in static renewal tests. "Safe concentrations" (infinite hours LC0.01s) have been estimated for rainbow trout and brown trout (Salmo trutta) at 5.1 and 7.5 mg fluoride/litre, respectively. At concentrations of >3.2 (effluent) or >3.6 (sodium fluoride) mg fluoride/litre, the hatching of catla (Catla catla) fish eggs was delayed by 1–2 h.

Behavioural experiments on adult Pacific salmon (Oncorhynchus sp.) in soft-water rivers indicate that changes in water chemistry resulting from an increase in the fluoride concentration to 0.5 mg/litre can adversely affect migration; migrating salmon are extremely sensitive to changes in the water chemistry of their river of origin.


So my 1.5 ppm is less than the estimated survivable 5.1 ppm. It still seems like something I would want to keep out of my system. I would think with evaporation, it would build up with top-offs.


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PostPosted: Jan 11th, '11, 06:49 
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
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fluoride or fluorine is a tricky one as small amounts are actually used and fine but it is when large amounts accumulate it becomes a problem. Yea, I think it would be better if they skipped adding it to the water supplies and just provided toothbrush and toothpaste to the poor rather than making people drink it (seeing as it doesn't really help to drink it.)

Hum, I don't know if there is any good way to see if it is accumulating to detrimental levels. Some plants tend to be sensitive to it and other plants may tend to accumulate it more which would pass on more of it to the animals that eat those plants.

Wonder if there are any plants that are especially good at taking up fluorine that could then be removed and used as mulch on ornamental plants.


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PostPosted: Jan 11th, '11, 06:59 
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It did not take me long to realize my tap water was going to be nothing but trouble. My current rainwater collection consists of three 20 gallon buckets and three pieces of corrugated plastic 2x8 sheets. They sit on top of the buckets and lean up against saw horses. El Cheapo solution and yields plenty of water. As long as I keep my sump full, I generally have a little fresh water sitting around for top-ups. In a pinch I can still top up a bit with tap water, as the rest of the water is pretty clean.

If you are still wanting to build a slow sand filter, it could be used with rain water collection to make a very high quality of pure water. I plan on building one soon too.

Skip the tap water, and just start collecting the free stuff...;)


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PostPosted: Jan 11th, '11, 10:59 
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TCLynx wrote:
fluoride or fluorine is a tricky one as small amounts are actually used and fine but it is when large amounts accumulate it becomes a problem. Yea, I think it would be better if they skipped adding it to the water supplies and just provided toothbrush and toothpaste to the poor rather than making people drink it (seeing as it doesn't really help to drink it.)


Yeah, everything I've read on it seems to confirm at best when it is applied topically it has some cavity prevention qualities. When ingested it can do a lot of nasty stuff including having links to bone cancer.

TCLynx wrote:
Hum, I don't know if there is any good way to see if it is accumulating to detrimental levels. Some plants tend to be sensitive to it and other plants may tend to accumulate it more which would pass on more of it to the animals that eat those plants.


I've been looking, and if I find something, I'll be sure to post. I've read in some places where you can have water sample sent off for testing, but haven't figured out where yet. Would be interesting to find out more in depth, especially when we get the large scale filtration going.

TCLynx wrote:
Wonder if there are any plants that are especially good at taking up fluorine that could then be removed and used as mulch on ornamental plants.


Well, from what I am reading, even the plants that filter it out have issues. If it goes into the fruit, it is ingested anyways. If it's mulched, it goes into the soil where it can be picked up by other plants. It's a definite way of reducing it, that's for sure though, it just doesn't stop the fish from being exposed to it. I'm under the belief that if it's bad for you, then you should try to eliminate it rather than limit it. Your body has to work to get rid of it (like the liver), then it stresses those organs and makes it harder to deal with things like disease. I think the same goes for the fish.


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PostPosted: Jan 11th, '11, 11:18 
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DéjàVoodoo wrote:
It did not take me long to realize my tap water was going to be nothing but trouble. My current rainwater collection consists of three 20 gallon buckets and three pieces of corrugated plastic 2x8 sheets. They sit on top of the buckets and lean up against saw horses. El Cheapo solution and yields plenty of water. As long as I keep my sump full, I generally have a little fresh water sitting around for top-ups. In a pinch I can still top up a bit with tap water, as the rest of the water is pretty clean.

If you are still wanting to build a slow sand filter, it could be used with rain water collection to make a very high quality of pure water. I plan on building one soon too.

Skip the tap water, and just start collecting the free stuff...;)


I was skimming through your thread and caught your chloramine issues and it's what started me looking into the water quality. I didn't realize it was as bad as it was. I'm probably going to go the water collection route. Just now started truly reading your thread, but I didn't remember seeing the collection system in there. I was thinking about stretching pond liner over a metal frame. From your description, I picture corrugate plastic rolled up and the end shoved in a bucket nonchalantly leaning up against the garage. It made me smile. Thanks.


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PostPosted: Jan 11th, '11, 23:08 
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TCLynx wrote:
Hum, I don't know if there is any good way to see if it is accumulating to detrimental levels. Some plants tend to be sensitive to it and other plants may tend to accumulate it more which would pass on more of it to the animals that eat those plants.


TCL,

I found this last night. Penn State University does water, soil, and soil-less grow media testing. There might be someone in the south that does it too. I know the University of Georgia (UGA) does soil analysis. I don't know about these testing costs. When we had or land perq tested for our septic system a month or so back, they told us the soil testing was about $20-$30 and took 1-2 weeks to hear back. I think the University of Alabama does soil testing as well.

http://www.aasl.psu.edu/HOWTO.HTM

http://www.aasl.psu.edu/METHODS.HTM

http://www.aasl.psu.edu/How%20to%20Coll ... Sample.pdf

If you're interested, I'll post what I find out about the UGA testing.


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PostPosted: Feb 24th, '11, 01:56 
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Intresting thread and some nice links, thanks GreenH'
I have one here that might be of value/intrest for you
http://pdacrsp.oregonstate.edu/pubs/pondsoil.pdf
cheers


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PostPosted: Feb 24th, '11, 17:45 
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best thing i'd say is use rain water if you can otherwise put it out of your mind.

we drink the crap they call water and if you use it on the soil gardens the Fluoride will accumulate anyway. Its a prick of a thing to filter, activated carbon will do nothing and almost all of the resin/polymer filters are designed NOT to remove it.

It and the other additives are the main reason i have advised people NOT to use "dump" water from their evap coolers on gardens or AP, at approx 7L/hr water evaporation rate thats a hell of a lot of "doublings" of dissolved solids in the final "dump"

Quote:
Twenty-day LC50s for rainbow trout ranged from 2.7 to 4.7 mg fluoride/litre in static renewal tests. "Safe concentrations" (infinite hours LC0.01s) have been estimated for rainbow trout and brown trout (Salmo trutta) at 5.1 and 7.5 mg fluoride/litre, respectively


is it just me or does this not make sense?

how can the LC50 for 20days be between 2.7mg and 4.7mg YET the "safe" conc. be 5.1mg and 7.5mg?

Methinks they put a decimal in the first set by accident.


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PostPosted: Feb 24th, '11, 17:52 
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Greenhomesteader wrote:
TCLynx wrote:
fluoride or fluorine is a tricky one as small amounts are actually used and fine but it is when large amounts accumulate it becomes a problem. Yea, I think it would be better if they skipped adding it to the water supplies and just provided toothbrush and toothpaste to the poor rather than making people drink it (seeing as it doesn't really help to drink it.)


Yeah, everything I've read on it seems to confirm at best when it is applied topically it has some cavity prevention qualities. When ingested it can do a lot of nasty stuff including having links to bone cancer.

TCLynx wrote:
Hum, I don't know if there is any good way to see if it is accumulating to detrimental levels. Some plants tend to be sensitive to it and other plants may tend to accumulate it more which would pass on more of it to the animals that eat those plants.


I've been looking, and if I find something, I'll be sure to post. I've read in some places where you can have water sample sent off for testing, but haven't figured out where yet. Would be interesting to find out more in depth, especially when we get the large scale filtration going.

TCLynx wrote:
Wonder if there are any plants that are especially good at taking up fluorine that could then be removed and used as mulch on ornamental plants.


Well, from what I am reading, even the plants that filter it out have issues. If it goes into the fruit, it is ingested anyways. If it's mulched, it goes into the soil where it can be picked up by other plants. It's a definite way of reducing it, that's for sure though, it just doesn't stop the fish from being exposed to it. I'm under the belief that if it's bad for you, then you should try to eliminate it rather than limit it. Your body has to work to get rid of it (like the liver), then it stresses those organs and makes it harder to deal with things like disease. I think the same goes for the fish.


Doesnt the Tea crop absorb fluoride well?


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PostPosted: Feb 24th, '11, 19:37 
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Did a homebrew with town water once and chucked on the lemon tree. The tree has since died. I dont blame it , the brew was rank.
Rain water for top ups is the go, but, that said, you need the tanks and the rainfall eh. So far so good here, but that could change in a couple of weeks of no rain and high plant transpiration.
Dunno what I would do if I had to top up with town water as its so crappy


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