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| Nitrite / Nitgrate / Ammonia levels http://byap.backyardmagazines.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=21986 |
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| Author: | -Mischief [ Jun 9th, '14, 07:35 ] |
| Post subject: | Nitrite / Nitgrate / Ammonia levels |
What should they be? I understand that my Ph should be around 7 but what should the rest be at? I just tested my system and my Ph is too high (8.2), ammonia was very low to non existant, as were Nitrites and Nitrates were about 10ppm. Thanks in advance!! |
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| Author: | Axism [ Jun 9th, '14, 08:30 ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Nitrite / Nitgrate / Ammonia levels |
I read about it. Nitrite 0 Ammonia 0 Nitrate 120? |
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| Author: | arbe [ Jun 9th, '14, 08:38 ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Nitrite / Nitgrate / Ammonia levels |
Axism is pretty much on the money. Ammonia should be 0. 0.25 is acceptable. Nitrite should also be 0. Nitrate can be anything. Your system is said to be cycled when you can dose it to 1ppm of ammonia and have readings of 0 for ammonia and nitrite within 24 hours. |
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| Author: | -Mischief [ Jun 9th, '14, 21:17 ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Nitrite / Nitgrate / Ammonia levels |
I thought Nitrites were needed for the plants? Then they generate nitrates? I'll keep reading. On a different note...Best way to lower the Ph? (other than dropping "Ph lower tabs" in my sump tank) |
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| Author: | guitarwes [ Jun 12th, '14, 03:23 ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Nitrite / Nitgrate / Ammonia levels |
Plants need niTRATES. Prolonged elevated ammonia and niTRITES are bad for the fish. Muriatic Acid (diluted hydrochloric acid) is a good way to lower the pH. Get it from a hardware store. Treat top up water to 6.0 and add to system as needed to keep he pH at what you prefer. When your systems "seasons" over time the natural process of the bacterial will lower pH. |
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| Author: | Mr Damage [ Jun 12th, '14, 08:41 ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Nitrite / Nitgrate / Ammonia levels |
-Mischief wrote: I thought Nitrites were needed for the plants? Then they generate nitrates? I'll keep reading. On a different note...Best way to lower the Ph? (other than dropping "Ph lower tabs" in my sump tank) If your system is cycled and well balanced in regards to the Fish:Wet gravel ratio then any Ammonia should be converted to Nitrite by the bacteria as quickly as the fish release it, and likewise the Nitrite should also be converted to Nitrate as it's produced, so ideally your Amm and Nitrite readings should be 0.0ppm. Having an occasional low Amm reading of say 0.25ppm is okay, but it means you are running your system very close to it's limits in regards to stocking/feeding. Having constant 0.25ppm Amm reading means your system is definitely at it's limit, and it wouldn't take much to cause a harmful spike in Amm in the system... basically you have no wiggle room... ie: maybe a fish dies and goes undetected for a day... your Amm could reach dangerous levels very quickly. Constant 0.25ppm Amm may not be a concern if both your water temp and pH are low, but I would only consider it acceptable if it was towards the end of Trout season for example, when your fish are getting quite large and you can micro manage the system through the last few weeks to harvest... but in that situation I would prefer to harvest a few of the larger fish and reduce the bio-load on the system, which is what I had to do with my system last Trout season. If the water temp and/or pH were high then constant Amm readings, even of 0.25ppm, would be of concern in my opinion, ie: If it was spring or summer and I was getting constant 0.25ppm I'd be taking action to remedy it, such as adding more bio-filtration, or reducing the amount of fish in the system. |
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| Author: | -Mischief [ Jun 12th, '14, 21:10 ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Nitrite / Nitgrate / Ammonia levels |
guitarwes wrote: Plants need niTRATES. Prolonged elevated ammonia and niTRITES are bad for the fish. This stuff is listed in the PAINT THINNER isle at HomeDepot!
Muriatic Acid (diluted hydrochloric acid) is a good way to lower the pH. Get it from a hardware store. Treat top up water to 6.0 and add to system as needed to keep he pH at what you prefer. When your systems "seasons" over time the natural process of the bacterial will lower pH. |
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| Author: | Mr Damage [ Jun 12th, '14, 21:23 ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Nitrite / Nitgrate / Ammonia levels |
Hydrochloric acid is used by many thousands of AP'ers, has been for years, and is perfectly safe for the fish when used correctly. Simply put, it disassociates into Hydrogen and Chloride. Hydrogen is a major component of water and the chloride is beneficial to the fish. |
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| Author: | -Mischief [ Jun 12th, '14, 21:54 ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Nitrite / Nitgrate / Ammonia levels |
Alrighty then, I'll pick up some Muriatic Acid from Home Depot tonight. |
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| Author: | bentaz [ Nov 19th, '14, 11:29 ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Nitrite / Nitgrate / Ammonia levels |
Attachment: 14163633312980.jpg [ 72.4 KiB | Viewed 12886 times ] can someone tell me if I have this right please? My water is 14c (although it's going to be 28 here today so it will warm a bit this afternoon). My Ph is 6.6. so according to the chart my ammonia needs to get to approximately 21 ppm to become toxic? Is that right?  Thanks in advance for any advice |
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| Author: | Jazandra [ Jun 17th, '15, 04:47 ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Nitrite / Nitgrate / Ammonia levels |
"guitarwes wrote: Plants need niTRATES. Prolonged elevated ammonia and niTRITES are bad for the fish. Muriatic Acid (diluted hydrochloric acid) is a good way to lower the pH. Get it from a hardware store. Treat top up water to 6.0 and add to system as needed to keep he pH at what you prefer. When your systems "seasons" over time the natural process of the bacterial will lower pH. This stuff is listed in the PAINT THINNER isle at HomeDepot!" - I'd like to go more organically than Muriatic Acid. I've heard that lime will lower pH gently, lemon will lower pH drastically. Crushed eggshells in a stocking under the inlet valve will raise pH gently. Thoughts? |
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| Author: | scotty435 [ Jun 17th, '15, 16:08 ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Nitrite / Nitgrate / Ammonia levels |
Muriatic acid is another name for Hydrochloric acid which is found in nature and actually produced by parietal cells for release into the stomach. Both lime and lemon juice have antimicrobial properties which might not be the best thing for the biofiltration of your grow beds. Crushed eggshells will work as long as the nitrification cycle isn't driving the pH down too quickly. |
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| Author: | Gunagulla [ Jun 17th, '15, 16:38 ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Nitrite / Nitgrate / Ammonia levels |
Jazandra wrote: I'd like to go more organically than Muriatic Acid. Your stomach is full of it, but I'd suggest the store is a better place to get it from  Quote: I've heard that lime will lower pH gently, Ignore whoever told you that, it is incorrect. Lime is an alkali and will raise your pH. |
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| Author: | Gunagulla [ Jun 17th, '15, 16:43 ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Nitrite / Nitgrate / Ammonia levels |
bentaz wrote: so according to the chart my ammonia needs to get to approximately 21 ppm to become toxic? Is that right? If you had Ammonia that high, it indicates you have way overdosed with Ammonia in an immature/uncycled system, or else there are dead things/piles of rotting food etc in the system somewhere. You need to think ahead- whilst having ~20ppm may *just* be on the safe side of toxic, once all that NH3/NH4+ converts to NO2, your fish will be in big trouble- huge water changes will be required for their survival. |
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| Author: | BuiDoi [ Jul 14th, '15, 17:48 ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Nitrite / Nitgrate / Ammonia levels |
.. I do wonder if LIME referred to a fruit.. :-) .. . |
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