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PostPosted: Aug 5th, '17, 14:03 

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As title state, I'm new and this is my first post.

I'm looking for someone to Mentor me through my design and construction phase. I have a rough idea of what I want, and because the boss (wife) doesnt like the idea of my new found hobby, it needs to be aesthetically pleasing (and of course work).

You will have to assume i know nothing (which is about right) and what I ask is annoyingly obvious and more than likely repetitive.

I have an area outside I would like to turn into a small AP system. I've attached 2 pictures of what i have and what I think I want. However, I am unsure if it will work. My picture isn't drawn to scale, and the GBs are not level, there is even some 18 month old baby input. Please just take it as a guide.

I was hoping to use pond liners for ponds. The size of the smaller ponds would be 30cm in width, depth and length are not set in stone. The smaller ponds are also an idea, they could be eliminated if they are not at all possible. My thinking for the smaller ponds was for small breeding stations, looks and sound. (Would be cool to have next to my outdoor cinema and firepit).

The main pond would be 1.8m x 1m x 0.3m. However, wont know depth until i start digging. I would rather have crayfish theoughout my whole system as I have experience breeding them and they are beautiful to eat. (The wife doesn't eat fish)

As the picture states i have access to power. I would like to get a pump powerful enough to pump the pond all the way to the top of the ramp.

COST would be great to be kept low, again to make the wife somewhat happy. I'm sure if you told me what I'll need I'd find a way to make it cheap and look good. (I hope)

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Image

Lets pretend I've thought of everything and just haven't drawn in the other things I will need (siphon etc). Do you think it will work? Anyone interested in Mentoring me?


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PostPosted: Aug 6th, '17, 04:40 
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Hi Caught. It looks very interesting and I'm sure it could be made to work. However, without wanting to put a downer on your idea I find it a little over complicated for a first build. In your shoes it might be an idea to start small and increase size with experience. Take time to watch YouTube videos and see how others have overcome problems they have encountered. I wish you all the best but your drawing is too complicated for me to help. I hope you can find a compromise. KE


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PostPosted: Aug 6th, '17, 06:12 

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Thanks KE. I understand how it could be complex. The biggest problem I'll face however is not being able to convice the wife lol. The looks I have already gotten watching the 100s of videos are priceless, what's another couple hundred.

I'll be trying the design without the smaller ponds first. I'll hopefully find a way or be told of a way the smaller ponds can be added.


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PostPosted: Aug 6th, '17, 08:19 
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Hi Caught,

I realise you want to save space while making a nice addition to your patio but building it up on the ledge is going to create some construction and personal safety issues.

Most Apers build the GBs between 700 & 900 mm high off the standing surface, this allows for easier less back breaking maintenance of GBs and plants.
Optimal GB depth is is about 300 mm of media and when flooded with water could exceed 250 kg/m2 so sturdy footings will be required.
A poly carbonate roof overhead mounted off the fence will also be beneficial to eliminate excessive rainwater from entering and potentially flooding the FT, hail plant damage, provide netting shade and greenhouse plastic mounting, help keep the enclosure warmer in winter and reduce the moisture around the GB footings.

Plants need sunlight and warmth but fish like dark cool places so the FT/ST should be further away under layers of or permanent shade unless you intend to super insulate it in full sun. I suggest a flood and drain with a timer to save up to 75% energy and pump on time.
I prefer to have all the GBs the same level per system and distribute the FT water evenly over each GB as opposed to drain from one to another, although you could have reducing height GBs and still have evenly distributed water.

Apers interested in your project will like me give their opinion of which you can decide what you want to do so in effect we all become you mentors.


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PostPosted: Aug 6th, '17, 11:05 
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Hi caught.

the previous 2 posts raise good points... it will be hard to get an advanced set up right without having played around first. Having said that if you are prepared for that and a few redesigns along the way maybe you can make it work - really comes down to the individual. You definitely wont get it right first time and any newbie stressing 'cheap' with a complex concept thread is usually behind the 8 ball before they start. If you try and go with too many fish you will probably have issues but if you start with low numbers of something simple it may be OK.



There are a couple of issues with your sketch:
Pete raises the first one which will be ensuring access to the beds/tubs etc.
You have 1.8m wide strip ?? so that might not be an issue if you have a small path between your fence and the ponds.

The other one is that your tubs are probably too small. But hard to say from the sketches.

Another is that you go from Fish Tank to the elevated? beds.
This may not work so well with small beds/tubs since you generally need to have opportunity for the nitrification to occur and ammonia is actually not good for plants.
One option is to come out of your fish tank into a 200Litre blue drum of media
and then you can use an airlift to get your water up to the beds - these can run on a timer or constant.
(timer can be any period you like up to 24/7)

As a guide for size you you could run something along the whole system as lines of a heap of 50 Litre rectangular tubs 300-350mm x 400mm x 600mm down the slope. For a couple of crayfish with flowing water that would be fine - you just may end up with 1 in each ;-) They would also be about right minimum size for planter pots with media. Replicating that with pond liner for the pools with the pond liner would/should be OK.


You will need to consider your elevations with respect to the fish tank at the end - the fish tank IBC may have to be dug in. That will probably work better than your sketch anyway.


A cascading pond system is workable with or without AP.
This would give you opportunities to raise crayfish with couple in each tub/pool.
Crayfish (yabbies or redclaw I guess ?) don't generate a lot of waste/ammonia compared to fish.
So if you don't plan to over stock with fish you will be fine.

You say that you have raised crayfish before so leave that up to you - but you wont get high numbers to eating size in any AP from most experience around here.

You need to provide some additional information - preferably on the photo.
(a) the height of the wall at the left hand side.
(b) and indication of where your planter tubs might be.


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PostPosted: Aug 6th, '17, 11:26 
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finally- the other option is to have the fish tank at the top - you would have to dig it in - for example an IBC is 900Wx1200Lx1mH. It can be cut down to any size/volume you like (so 0.5m deep for example).

As long as you had blocks behind it and your width (wall to fence) is 1.8m then it would be feasible.
You could SLO out of your fish tank down the slope and have a partly buried sump at the bottom with pump in it.
Then pump back up to Fish Tank - that would require lot less pump power than going up to the planter boxes.
[assuming the wall is about 1-1.5m high at the left.

and p.s. you wouldn't run siphons on a system like this.


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PostPosted: Aug 7th, '17, 14:18 

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Petesake wrote:
Hi Caught,

I realise you want to save space while making a nice addition to your patio but building it up on the ledge is going to create some construction and personal safety issues.

This ledge is the 2nd pathway already from my patio to my pool area. It is 1.8m wide and 8m long.

Most Apers build the GBs between 700 & 900 mm high off the standing surface, this allows for easier less back breaking maintenance of GBs and plants.

My GBs will be raised approx. 300mm and 700mm

Optimal GB depth is is about 300 mm of media and when flooded with water could exceed 250 kg/m2 so sturdy footings will be required.
Great. This is something I did not think of. After some brainstorming with a mate, I've changed my design to allow for a bracket and frame to be included from the wall. This should eliminate weight distribution when flooding occurs

A poly carbonate roof overhead mounted off the fence will also be beneficial to eliminate excessive rainwater from entering and potentially flooding the FT, hail plant damage, provide netting shade and greenhouse plastic mounting, help keep the enclosure warmer in winter and reduce the moisture around the GB footings.
Possibly something to look at in the future. ATM I want to see how my climate will alter my AP system.

Plants need sunlight and warmth but fish like dark cool places so the FT/ST should be further away under layers of or permanent shade unless you intend to super insulate it in full sun. I suggest a flood and drain with a timer to save up to 75% energy and pump on time.

My plants will have approx. 9 hours of sun. My FT will be buried into the ground, as well as a backing wall which wasn't in my original design. This would shade the pond for an extra few hours a day. I don't mind if the crayfish are heated up a little, they tend to eat, grow and breed more when in warmer water.

Apers interested in your project will like me give their opinion of which you can decide what you want to do so in effect we all become you mentors.


Thankyou for your input. My designs will evolve due to it


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PostPosted: Aug 7th, '17, 14:39 

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dlf_perth wrote:
Hi caught.

the previous 2 posts raise good points... it will be hard to get an advanced set up right without having played around first. Having said that if you are prepared for that and a few redesigns along the way maybe you can make it work - really comes down to the individual. You definitely wont get it right first time and any newbie stressing 'cheap' with a complex concept thread is usually behind the 8 ball before they start. If you try and go with too many fish you will probably have issues but if you start with low numbers of something simple it may be OK.

Spot on. I make things difficult, but also want to please the boss. Once I get an idea in my head its hard to back down. As I said to Pete, I don't mind failure

There are a couple of issues with your sketch:
Pete raises the first one which will be ensuring access to the beds/tubs etc.
You have 1.8m wide strip ?? so that might not be an issue if you have a small path between your fence and the ponds.
No issue

The other one is that your tubs are probably too small. But hard to say from the sketches.
I left the GBs and FT dimensions open as I haven't found material I've been happy with. The Length of each need to be simular to allow for the frame and brackets to match up. Both will not exceed 300mm in width

Another is that you go from Fish Tank to the elevated? beds.
This may not work so well with small beds/tubs since you generally need to have opportunity for the nitrification to occur and ammonia is actually not good for plants.
One option is to come out of your fish tank into a 200Litre blue drum of media
and then you can use an airlift to get your water up to the beds - these can run on a timer or constant.
(timer can be any period you like up to 24/7)
Possibly a solution I can adapt into my design behind the wall near the pond. Its not in the original design, but will be perpendicular to the fence, on the east side of the pond.

As a guide for size you you could run something along the whole system as lines of a heap of 50 Litre rectangular tubs 300-350mm x 400mm x 600mm down the slope. For a couple of crayfish with flowing water that would be fine - you just may end up with 1 in each ;-) They would also be about right minimum size for planter pots with media. Replicating that with pond liner for the pools with the pond liner would/should be OK.
:thumbright: sounds like an idea. The smaller ponds would only be used for breeding and possibly rearing young. I haven't quite worked out the logistics to make it work yet.



You will need to consider your elevations with respect to the fish tank at the end - the fish tank IBC may have to be dug in. That will probably work better than your sketch anyway.
That shows how bad my sketch is :D , it was meant to look buried


A cascading pond system is workable with or without AP.
This would give you opportunities to raise crayfish with couple in each tub/pool.
Crayfish (yabbies or redclaw I guess ?) don't generate a lot of waste/ammonia compared to fish.
So if you don't plan to over stock with fish you will be fine.
:headbang: - I want redclaw due to accessibility however, looking at laws before I commit to them. They are not to be stocked in NSW and although its a pond there is a creek about 50metres away. I use to breed Yabbies in FTs and was doing quite well, they will otherwise be my choice.

You say that you have raised crayfish before so leave that up to you - but you wont get high numbers to eating size in any AP from most experience around here.
I'm fine with not having too many to eat. I generally come home with a bucket once a month. I concentrate on speed of 'production' once it does/doesn't work

You need to provide some additional information - preferably on the photo.
(a) the height of the wall at the left hand side. Its approximately 1.5m high
(b) and indication of where your planter tubs might be. Along the fence line, right against the fence, all would have EXP clay for Media


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PostPosted: Aug 7th, '17, 14:45 

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dlf_perth wrote:
finally- the other option is to have the fish tank at the top - you would have to dig it in - for example an IBC is 900Wx1200Lx1mH. It can be cut down to any size/volume you like (so 0.5m deep for example).

Got me thinking hard about this concept. The idea of having a bridge over the top of the IBC which lead to the path down the slope would look amazing. However, even more work?

As long as you had blocks behind it and your width (wall to fence) is 1.8m then it would be feasible.
You could SLO out of your fish tank down the slope and have a partly buried sump at the bottom with pump in it.
Then pump back up to Fish Tank - that would require lot less pump power than going up to the planter boxes.

Would then have another pump which feeds planters from the FT?

[assuming the wall is about 1-1.5m high at the left.

and p.s. you wouldn't run siphons on a system like this.
That's why I'm the newb and your the sensei


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PostPosted: Aug 8th, '17, 20:39 
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>> As I said to Pete, I don't mind failure

wont be failure unless you get really ambitious - usually falls into the 'minor setback' or 'requires a re-think' category.
Not fixing too much in place initially helps a lot - then it is pretty easy to re-pipe etc in hindsight.

>> However, even more work?

depends on how hard it is to dig out. A 1m x 1.3m x 0.5m hole is not too bad.
People around here have dug the full 1m before.
Other people around here have set IBC's in behind brick retaining wall 'planters'.
eg. >> viewtopic.php?f=18&t=28102
Just need to brace behind with something suitable as the IBC has no inherent strength even in a cage.

I see likely options.

(a) use a 500-600mm high IBC and dig it in on the left in the shaded area. You would need to dig in but it would be OK as long as you address any slope pressure from the fence behind. That would cascade in your small ponds down the slope.
Keep the ponds pretty much against the front wall - use something suitable as 'padding'. Then have another IBC dug in at the bottom as a sump. Pump from the sump back to the fish tank. Both tanks can have crayfish in them no problems and more in the slope ponds.

(b) Lift vertically to a blue drum of media (that is about 1.6m and will provide a wet media volume & biofilter). Then overflow that into a level set of planters/troughs running along the back fence (right hand ones would have to be raised up). Choose your veg to suit and maybe have a small path 300-400mm pavers etc for access. Have the return go back into the fish tank at the top of slope (lift is about 1.6m based on your numbers).

These could also work if you overflow into both the ponds and the planters as a parallel stream,
flowing from left to right downslope. Then you would have to pump back to the top of slope (8m + 1.5m head). Do-able.

This would have the disclaimer that you wouldn't run too many fish. Koi or goldfish may be better suited than food fish. And they hang out with yabbies etc no problem.


I would go wider for my planters than 300mm as it make life a lot simpler.

(c) don't bother with AP. Just run primarily as a cascading pond system.


the system doesn't need to run 24/7. So you can run pump on a timer. Only 1 pump required.
(but should be a decent one)

>> That shows how bad my sketch is :D , it was meant to look buried
sketch is fine but the elevations would need to be worked out. It was the planters I was looking at.


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PostPosted: Aug 9th, '17, 14:00 

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Image

So trying to take it all in.

Forget about the GBs atm. Ill consider my options once I've nutted out the water details.
I've drawn a new design. Not a lot of details but concentrating on the water flow.
As you can see there are 2 IBCs.
The top one is 600mm and bottom 40mm.
The bottom would pump straight up to the top FT, which would eventually overflow and cascade down the 1m x 0.3m x 0.3m smaller ponds.
The Top FT would also pump water into the GBs (whatever they are).
From there I could have the water going to the GBs and using gravity, eventually come out the end and back into the bottom FT.
OR I could have a vertical wall garden, where top FT pumps into the top slot of each vertical GB, which would drain down into each other until it flowed into the cascading ponds. (has anyone used the vertical mesh planters?) I understand there my back an issue with the bottom planters getting less nutrients?

Both options would work in terms of water flow as long as the bottom pump is a little faster than the flow of water into the bottom FT. The bottom tank would lose water while the pump is on, however since it will be on a timed system, the water would return well and truly before the next cycle.

I can see a problem with my ratio GB:FT .... which I'm unsure how to fix, but atm since I am unsure what GBs I'm using, its not really a problem yet....


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PostPosted: Aug 21st, '17, 11:29 

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"Caught" 's drawing looks like a sensible way of doing it .

I would make the left most (top) pond a biofilter (could be e.g. 100L, mostly buried)
And I would set it up so you could isolate the (left hand fish tank , biofilter, and pump) from the (sump tank, pump and gardens), makes it easy to fiddle around if the fish can be self sufficient temporarily . Not sure which subsystem to put the cascading ponds in?.

Make sure you have a spare pump, and a spare aerator. ( I lost two pumps last week within days of each other!) use a venturi on your pumps as a "spare aerator"

You also need another 200L drum available to treat tapwater.

You will need duckweed or azolia on your cascading ponds , or you will have a full scale algae bloom !!!

You have a lot of shallow , exposed pondage, this will have fairly large temperature swings. And large evaporation losses, make sure the sump tank has enough reserve capacity to handle a weeks evaporation.

And heed other posters notes on effect of rainwater.

If your garden beds are going to be NFT , then you need to have adequate flow during the middle of the day, else the plants will overheat.


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PostPosted: Aug 21st, '17, 18:26 
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Consider what happens when there's a pump and or aerator failure and the system can't cycle?
I prefer the one pump two sump(FT) option.


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PostPosted: Aug 22nd, '17, 20:05 
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Looks a lot like Boris' system. He's having a real Crack. Check his out.

Sent from my SM-P600 using Tapatalk


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